You’ll have to just trust me on this one, but there’s no better cure for a broken heart than a good piece of beef cheek. When I left Ibiza last week, I was convinced that the rest of my holiday was doomed. How could I ever feel for another place the way I did for the White Isle? That had to be the peak; I figured I might as well cut my losses and go home. But then: a memory came ... Read Full Article
Where to Eat and Drink in Bilbao, Spain
If Basque cuisine needs any introduction at all, then let me quote Anthony Bourdain, who has called the Basque Country "the center of Western gastronomy." With the chance to spend a week in Bilbao, the largest city in the Basque Country, how could I not put such bold claims to the test? Now, I will never claim to be an expert gourmand. However, if you give me a week and a license to eat and drink, ... Read Full Article
The Truth about Pamplona’s Running of the Bulls
Here is the truth about Pamplona's Running of the Bulls. There’s a specific hour that only happens on eight days of the year. It takes place somewhere between four and six a.m. in a small Basque town, when morning seems to be starting, yet last night’s party never really ended. You’ve never seen so much garbage in your life, and the smell of urine is overpowering. There are ... Read Full Article
Run with the Bulls in Pamplona, Spain
Muster the word ‘Pamplona’ and chances are your first thoughts will have something to do with “Bulls” and “Running.” Yet there’s so much more to this aged, fortified city than the Running of the Bulls, without doubt one of the most revered and infamous calendar events on the planet. As the wide eyed traveler will discover year-round, a visit to this proud old hub will yield so much more ... Read Full Article
“Basque”ing in the Culture of Saint-Jean-de-Luz and San Sébastian
Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the Southwest corner of France and San Sebastian just across the border in Spain are both located in the area known as Basque country. Strikingly similar in layout and architecture, these cities offer some of the best Basque beaches, sights and food. Getting to the Basque Region It is possible, though quite spendy, to fly into the Biarritz, France airport ... Read Full Article
Spain’s Basque Beauties: Mundaka, Bermeo, Gorliz and Plentzia
On one of the best trips we’ve ever taken to Spain’s Basque region, my husband and I scoped out some regional gems that are off the typical tourist’s radar. Whenever we fantasize about where we’ll buy a European vacation home (after we become rich and famous, of course), these three spots are near the top of our list. We hope you enjoy them as much as we did. Mundaka We originally headed ... Read Full Article
Exploring Bilbao, Spain: A Paradise for Foodies and Art Lovers
After writing a paper on the Bilbao Guggenheim for a contemporary art history course in graduate school, I knew I had to get there one day. I was captivated by Frank Gehry’s innovative architectural design and curious to see the museum’s diverse collection. So, the day after I finished a rather intense teaching gig in France, I convinced my husband to hop a train with me, bound for the ... Read Full Article
Cider Houses Rule in Basque Spain
While Spain’s Rioja region is famous for its red wine and the Andalusian area of the south is known for its sherry production, the Basque region around San Sebastián has a specialty drink of its own – a tart, vinegary alcoholic cider. The cider, referred to as “natural” - it is still rather than carbonated - is made from several varieties of apples and has an alcohol content of about ... Read Full Article
Once is Not Enough: Our Stay at Ostapé
On a recent trip to the Basque region of France, we spent one wonderful night at Ostapé, a country inn owned by Catherine Pere-Verge and operated by Alain Ducasse, who grew up in Basque country. We arrived at Ostapé late afternoon in the middle of a rain shower. The rolling hills surrounding the estate of 45 hectares were shining in the rain and suddenly the clouds parted and the sun broke ... Read Full Article