Dozens of inviting villages are scattered throughout sun-drenched Provence, in southern France. Two of my favorites, perhaps because they’re lesser known and have such unpretentious charm, are Eygalières and Mausanne-les-Alpilles, in the Bouches-de-Rhone region. Both lie near the Chaine des Alpilles, a low east-west range of limestone peaks that rise steeply from the Rhone River …
Paul Cézanne was devoted to his hometown of Aix-en-Provence, in southern France, and it’s easy to see why. More than a hundred years after the great artist’s time, it’s still a lovely, livable city. “When you’re born here,” Cézanne said, “nothing else is good enough.” He was fascinated by the light of Provence and painted the …
In charming, lively Aix-en-Provence, lodgings abound for every taste and budget. This civilized, cultured, fountain-filled city in southern France has been a popular tourist destination for a very long time. Here are five hospitable choices in the historic center, close to the famous main boulevard, Cours Mirabeau: Hotel Cezanne 4-Star Hotel Cezanne, named for Aix’s …
Marseille is in the spotlight this year; the historic seaport on France’s Mediterranean coast was chosen European Capital of Culture for 2013. A dazzling array of displays, performances, and exhibitions is underway and, happily for visitors who can’t get there this year, much of it will spill into the future. The city, with government and EU …
Soaps made in traditional fashion and within the city limits of Marseille, France, are the only ones allowed by French law to use the coveted name: Savon de Marseille. What makes this simple, mild soap so special? Why is it favored in exclusive boutiques and salons in the U.S. and Europe? Recently I went in search …
Bouillabaisse is serious business in southern France, especially in the seaside town of Marseille . The delectable fish soup originated here, and every chef and fisherman claims to have the best recipe. The art of cooking bouillabaisse began on the Mediterranean coast centuries ago, probably by sailors thriftily turning unsold fish into a spicy stew. It …
The first time I saw Paris, many years ago, my friends and I headed for Montmartre. We’d seen the movies and heard the stories, and we weren’t about to miss this famous neighborhood. It seemed a bit tawdry, but we didn’t care. We went straight to the Moulin Rouge where we watched women in skimpy outfits dance onstage, while we tasted champagne. …
Shopping in Paris is the shopping equivalent of finding your soul mate. Paris is seductive; it has an allure and elegance unlike any other city. The problem is, as a shopping soul mate, it tends be slightly more fickle than your new main squeeze. When Shopping in Paris, you’ll find that: 1. You romanticize even …
The names of the streets, the monuments, the statues, everything in Ajaccio, Corsica evokes the memory of Napoleon Bonaparte. Furthermore, a few kilometers outside of Ajaccio, you may discover sites where Napoleon lived or passed by. One of the best ways to explore them is by car. Napoleonic Sights in Ajaccio La Chapelle des Grecs On your way …
If you’ve read or heard anything about the life of the celebrated chef Julia Child, then you know the transformative power of French cuisine (if you need a refresher, just watch the 2009 film “Julie and Julia”). Just as it changed Julia’s life (and career), French cuisine—specifically learning to cook it—has impacted the lives of …