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Favorite Villages in Provence: Eygalières and Mausanne-les-Alpilles

Dozens of  inviting villages are scattered throughout sun-drenched Provence, in southern France. Two of my favorites, perhaps because they’re lesser known and have such unpretentious charm, are Eygalières and Mausanne-les-Alpilles,  in the Bouches-de-Rhone region. Both lie near the Chaine des Alpilles, a low east-west range of limestone peaks that rise steeply from the Rhone River …

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Following the Footsteps of Cezanne in Aix en Provence

Paul Cézanne was devoted to his hometown of Aix-en-Provence, in southern France, and it’s easy to see why. More than a hundred years after the great artist’s time, it’s still a lovely, livable city. “When you’re born here,” Cézanne said, “nothing else is good enough.” He was fascinated by the light of Provence and painted the …

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The Marvelous Soaps of Marseille (Savon de Marseille)

Soaps made in traditional fashion and within the city limits of Marseille, France, are the only ones allowed by French law to use the coveted name: Savon de Marseille. What makes this simple, mild soap so special? Why is it favored in exclusive boutiques and salons in the U.S. and Europe? Recently I went in search …

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Bouillabaisse in Marseille: The Real Thing

Bouillabaisse is serious business in southern France, especially in the seaside town of Marseille . The delectable fish soup originated here, and every chef and fisherman claims to have the best recipe. The art of cooking bouillabaisse began on the Mediterranean coast centuries ago, probably by sailors thriftily turning unsold fish into a spicy stew. It …

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Favorite Towns of Provence and the Cote d’ Azur

Mmmm…imagine sunshine, the scent of lavender and rosemary, parasol pines, olive groves, sunflowers, and the Mediterranean…you are experiencing the South of France. But Provence and the Cote d’Azur offer much more than that. Think of hill towns, charming markets, art galleries, sailing, scuba diving, star-gazing (movie star, that is), swimming and soaking up the sun, and …

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A Star Shines in Moustiers Sainte Marie – Provence, France

Two mountain peaks tower steeply above Moustiers Sainte Marie, France; and from an iron chain stretched between the two peaks shines a golden star. The five-pointed star’s origin is typically obscure and is the subject of polite dispute. It is popularly attributed to the returning Crusader Baron Blacas, miraculously freed from Saracen captivity and eager to …

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Market Day in Saint-Remy-de-Provence

We drove to St-Remy-de-Provence, 20 km from Avignon, bright and early to make sure we missed nothing of the famous St. Remy Market. After parking on the edge of town, we followed the fast-paced, empty-basket toting crowds, to centre ville, while taking in the colors and fragrances of this wonderful Provencal tradition. We passed olive …

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